Investigating the influence of excipient batch variation on the structure, consistency and physical stability of polysorbate 60-based topical vehicles.

Hoang Vu Dang, Hung Tran Huu, Hue Minh Thi Nguyen

International journal of cosmetic science 2021 Dec

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Fatty alcohol-polysorbate 60-water ternary systems were used as models to represent the continuous phases of the respective semisolid oil-in-water emulsions for topical delivery of cosmetic and medicinal agents. The influence of batch variation of polysorbate 60 and fatty alcohol on structure and consistency of these systems was investigated using microscopy, rheology, differential scanning calorimetry and X-ray scattering techniques. The polysorbate 60 : cetostearyl alcohol mixed emulsifying wax showed swelling in water, that is, the lamellar repeat distance continually augmented from 93 to 125 Å with water percentage 20-90%. Cetostearyl alcohol ternary systems were thicker than cetyl alcohol ones independently of polysorbate 60 batches used. All the ternary systems showed an initial increase in consistency over the first 2 weeks of storage, which was followed by slight changes in consistency (cetostearyl alcohol systems) due to the re-allocation of polysorbate 60 molecules in the gel network or significant breakdown of structure (cetyl alcohol systems) due to the transformation of swollen α-lamellar gel phase into β, γ crystals on 25°C storage. With all fatty alcohols, the consistency of polysorbate 60 ternary system was directly dependent upon interlamellar water thickness as governed by the length and distribution of polyoxyethylene groups within polysorbate 60 molecules. In relation with the composition of polysorbate 60 batches used, the consistency of ternary systems was higher when prepared with the polysorbate 60 batch containing a greater amount of sorbitan polyoxyethylene monoesters. It was proposed that the swollen α-crystalline gel phase could be better formed by sorbitan polyoxyethylene monoesters rather than sorbitan polyoxyethylene diesters. © 2021 Society of Cosmetic Scientists and Societe Francaise de Cosmetologie.

Citation

Hoang Vu Dang, Hung Tran Huu, Hue Minh Thi Nguyen. Investigating the influence of excipient batch variation on the structure, consistency and physical stability of polysorbate 60-based topical vehicles. International journal of cosmetic science. 2021 Dec;43(6):715-728