Boosting of retinol activity using novel lecithin: Retinol acyltransferase inhibitors.

Dominik Imfeld, André Fischer, Leithe Budel, Clarissa Stoll, Rolf Schütz, Anthony Vincent Rawlings

International journal of cosmetic science 2024 Aug

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Lecithin:retinol acyltransferase (LRAT) is the main enzyme catalysing the esterification of retinol to retinyl esters and, hence, is of central importance for retinol homeostasis. As retinol, by its metabolite retinoic acid, stimulates fibroblasts to synthesize collagen fibres and inhibits collagen-degrading enzymes, the inhibition of LRAT presents an intriguing strategy for anti-ageing ingredients by increasing the available retinol in the skin. Here, we synthesized several derivatives mimicking natural lecithin substrates as potential LRAT inhibitors. By exploring various chemical modifications of the core scaffold consisting of a central amino acid and an N-terminal acylsulfone, we explored 10 different compounds in a biochemical assay, resulting in two compounds with IC50 values of 21.1 and 32.7 μM (compounds 1 and 2), along with a simpler arginine derivative with comparative inhibitory potency. Supported by computational methods, we investigated their structure-activity relationship, resulting in the identification of several structural features associated with high inhibition of LRAT. Ultimately, we conducted an ex vivo study with human skin, demonstrating an increase of collagen III associated with a reduction of the skin ageing process. In conclusion, the reported compounds offer a promising approach to boost retinol abundance in human skin and might present a new generation of anti-ageing ingredients for cosmetic application. © 2024 DSM Nutritional Products Ltd. International Journal of Cosmetic Science published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd on behalf of Society of Cosmetic Scientists and Societe Francaise de Cosmetologie.

Citation

Dominik Imfeld, André Fischer, Leithe Budel, Clarissa Stoll, Rolf Schütz, Anthony Vincent Rawlings. Boosting of retinol activity using novel lecithin: Retinol acyltransferase inhibitors. International journal of cosmetic science. 2024 Aug;46(4):544-552